Radio – Base CB

Hello, Frank here.

Last time we talked about mobile CB radios. For a base station most of the equipment will be the same – power cable, radio and coax cable. What you will need different this time is a power supply. Since almost all CB radios operate off of 12 volt or 13.8 VDC, then you are going to need a separate power supply that produces this voltage.

In most cases, you will also need a base type antenna. If you have a metal roof, you can get creative and stick a magnet mount antenna, (the kind used on a vehicle) on your roof, and it will work okay. But most choose to go a different route. I am going to talk about two antennas – the 108 and the A99. I will also give some examples of power supplies. 

Next I am going to give a formula that will be used through all levels of radio communications. And guess what it is? P = E x I.  Now, you need to remember this. P equals power or watts. E equals voltage. I equals current or amps. Alright. If your radio uses four watts of power (P) and the voltage is 13.8 (E), then divide P by E and get I, which in this case is about .3 amps. So, you will need a power supply that produces .3 amps. Most amateur power supplies are rated with their output in amps. Now, you might say, that is not a lot of amperage. You will need more than .3 amps

to transmit. But then, 4 watts is not a lot of power. Another rule: The rule of 80. The maximum you ever use of any piece of equipment is 80% of maximum rated output. So, in this case, go ahead and purchase a power supply that puts out at least 2 amps minimum. 80% of 2 amps is 1.6 amps. You need .3 amps for a 4 watt radio to listen, so there is power to spare with this set up, but not a lot. Something else to remember, you cannot have too much amperage, but you can have too little. 

This is a side note here. If you are never going to add any more equipment to your system, then a 2 amp power supply will work fine for years to come. But – if you have plans to add more power to a CB radio or you might buy a manufactured radio that uses more power, like an 11 meter radio, or most ham radios, then you might want to buy a larger power supply now. Remember, you can’t have too many amps. Universal Radio and Bells CB both have many power supplies and a lot of information. I have done business with both companies and am satisfied with their service and products.

Example: Let’s say you purchased a 30 amp power supply, which is a good choice for long-term planning. This is, of course, at 13.8 volts. Everything we are talking about here is.
Then go back to the formula of P = E x I. You have 13.8VDC (direct current) times 30 amps, equals 414 watts. That is your usable wattage output. Now figure in the rule of 80 – 414 times 80% equals 331 watts, which you can use very comfortably with a 30 amp power supply. We’ll talk a whole lot more about P = E x I. Learn it now. Look up above to see what P, E, and I mean.

There are many, many antennas sold by many, many dealers. Every antenna promises the maximum output and the best reception. I’m going to recommend the classic 108, which is a stainless steel, whip antenna. 108 means one hundred and eight inches in length. It is actually a 102 with a six inch spring attached to the bottom. Wa-la! giving you 108 inches. To mount this antenna you will need a trucker mirror type mount, because it will probably go on a pole attached to the outside of your house. We’ll talk more about attaching the antenna to the pole in just a minute. By the way, the 108 antenna, in my opinion, is the best antenna made for mobile operation. It really looks cool on a jeep. Again, my personal opinion.

Next is the A99 made by Antron. It is about 16 feet long, comes in three fiberglass pieces and is a standard in the industry. It comes with a radial plane kit. Some will say the kit is needed and others will say it’s not. This antenna is a pole mount only and if you use the radial plane kit, you will need to go a little higher because the radials point downward at an angle. The mounts that come with this antenna, will mount poles about an inch and a half in diameter. Do some research and find the exact size, because you want the pole to be smaller than the mounts call for. The same is true with mounting the 108. 

Now you are going to need some cable or coax. It is actually called coaxial cable. On each end of the cable you will need a PL259 connector. Of course, it depends on how far your antenna is up in the air as to how much cable you need. Buy a few extra feet. Depending on the length needed and the power used, a standard cable is RG-8X. If you’re running high power, and greater length than, let’s say 25 feet, then you will need a different coax cable. We’ll talk more about that when we talk about high power equipment.

Okay. Now, you’ve picked out a power supply that will cost you any where from $50 -$100. You have chosen your antenna. A 108 antenna will cost at the most, $50. An A99, with radial attachment, will be, maybe $130. Without the radial attachment, less. Pre-made coax cable with connectors on each end, let’s say, 25 feet – $35 or $40 or less. Now you need a radio.

All CB radios operate on AM, which is amplitude modulation. They all operate around 26 to 27 Mhz (megahertz). This is the operating frequency. All manufacturers make a good, solid radio. You can find one from $75 to $125. Some have weather (NOAA), some have alarm clocks, some the dials change colors, others light up at night and during the day, some have echo, some have talk back, some have SSB, some have adjustable power, adjustable microphones, adjustable input power – there are many, many choices to pick from. Like I said before, if you want to talk to your buddy half a mile down the road with no hills in the way, any radio will do. If you want to talk to somebody a long ways away, then not any radio will do.

Talk back and echo, I think, are a little silly. Lighted dials come in very handy, especially in a mobile situation, and sometimes they just look cool. A weather option is your choice. SSB (single side band) is necessary if you want to talk long distance. 

Cobra makes the 148, which is a classic SSB radio. Galaxy makes a handful of SSB radios: 949, 959, 979. Uniden makes the Bearcat 980. These are all strong contenders for single sideband radios. The Uniden is a new radio. It hasn’t been out long, but it is well worth a look. My personal preference is the Galaxy line of radios. All of these radios tend to cost a little bit more than your average non-SSB radio, and work well in a mobile environment. Having the same radio in your house and your car means you become more familiar with the knobs and it’s operation. Something to think about.

Now, we have a radio, an antenna, cable, and a power supply. That’s about all you need. There are some things I cannot tell you on a blog. You are going to need a pole to put up your antenna. Some people use fiberglass. You can purchase these at some Army/Navy stores. Hardware stores that carry fencing supplies that come in 10 foot sections work pretty good too. I like to have the pole attached to the ground, attached to the side of the house and just far enough above the roof line so that the antenna will fit. Mount the pole in it’s chosen place; mount the antenna to the pole; connect your cable to the antenna; run your cable into your house however you choose; READ THE RADIO MANUAL; READ THE RADIO MANUAL; connect the cable to the back of your radio; connect your radio to the power supply, which is real easy – red connects to red, black connects to black; turn the on/off switch in the appropriate direction – which is normally also your volume; and you are in business. If you purchased an SSB radio, most CB SSB is conducted on the LSB (lower side band). It is usually done between the frequencies of 30 & 40. Example: Channel 34 LSB.

Now, CAUTION. During a thunderstorm or electrical storm unplug your radio antenna connection. Some people also disconnect their power supply. Depending on how you ran your coax into your house, put your antenna connection into a glass jar, because lightening can and will fry your radio and all associated equipment. CAUTION. If you choose to pep up your radio and run more power, then you can do RF (radio frequency) damage. If you don’t know what you are doing then don’t do it. With 4 watts of power this is not a concern. 

I have talked on my SSB CB radio from southeastern Oklahoma to Grants Pass, Oregon; Ontario, Canada; and southern Florida. I hope you enjoy your CB radio. But if you do want more options, or more power, then in a couple of posts we are going to be talking about 10 meter and export radios, which are on many of the sites I have given you before. 

We’ll talk more later. 73, Frank

Canning Beets and Carrots

We’re off to another first time adventure. I love to learn!

This is the first year we have ever successfully planted, grown and harvested beets or carrots. Drum roll please! Now that doesn’t mean we did a great job. 

The carrots look pretty good growing by the tomatoes.

But the beets had to share space with a lot of grass and weeds.

Still, our harvest was larger than we expected. We hope to learn a lot from this new experience. 

I went ahead and picked both crops because I don’t think we have enough of either to fill up the canner. I was glad to find out they are both processed for 30 minutes at 10 pounds of pressure.

Our carrots are twisted and gnarled because we need to plow the garden deeper for root crops – but they taste good.

I cut off the greens outside so I wouldn’t accidentally bring in any bugs.

Not bad for a little patch. We’ll see how many this turns out to be when they are cut up and ready to be put in the jars.

Most of the beets are small, only a few are a good size. There were more than I thought there would be. It is so interesting to see how a harvest turns out.

I had read that it is better to twist off the greens instead of cutting them. When beet greens are cut they tend to bleed out more of the color. 

I saved all of the greens for the chickens. I don’t know if they will eat this many in a day, but the weather is very hot and these greens won’t last, so the chickens get greens for breakfast today.

Now it’s time to get ready to can. We are not pickling the beets, just canning them in water. Frank likes them better that way and I have never been much of a beet eater. After all the work of growing and preserving them, though, I think I will be eating more beets.

First, wash everything.  The carrots need to be washed………..

and sliced.

The beets are boiled for about 20 minutes after they are washed.

Then rinsed in cold water to loosen the skin.

 

Next, cut off the root and the stem.

Most of the skins slipped off very easily. Only a few needed to be peeled some with the knife.

Slice them up, and they are ready to go.

 

While I was working on the carrots and beets….

Frank was getting the jars ready. We pour boiling water in a milk bucket and roll the jars around.

 

You know how hard it is to keep your cookbook open to the right page? Frank got a piece of plexiglass that would fit over most of my cookbooks. It works great!

And it fits on the shelf with the books. Easy to use and store.

 I have highlighted the important stuff in the manual that came with my canner. I review this every time I use it. I use an All American canner. We bought this type because it doesn’t need a gasket, therefore, less parts to replace. 
Since this is my first canning of the season, we check everything out and put a fresh layer of Vaseline between the lid and the base to prevent the two sticking together during the canning process. Every so often we have to use a screw driver to loosen the lid, but if so, it works fine.

Here is our beet crop – five pints.

 

 I am adding 1/2 teaspoon of salt per jar, which is optional.
The lids and rings are simmering off to the right.

Now they’re ready to add boiling water and put the lids on.

Here we are starting to fill up the first layer on the bottom. This canner calls for 1 1/2 inches of water. You will notice
that some of the lids have writing on them. We reuse some of our lids. It is not recommended. We do it anyway. When we open a jar, we do it very carefully trying not to bend the rubber ring. If the surface of the lid is in tact and the rubber ring is okay, we use them again.

This is the rack for the second level. Our canner will hold 16 pints.

We ended up with 14 pints – 5 beets and 9 carrots.

With this type of canner, you have to be careful to get the gap between the top and bottom even all the way around.

Then, tighten down the wing nuts evenly, two at a time on opposite sides.

Once steam starts coming out of the vent, exhaust for 7 minutes. Put the weight on the vent and wait for it to start rocking and spewing a little. Then process for 30 minutes at 10 pounds of pressure.

When the time is up, turn off the fire and let the canner sit until the pressure gauge reads zero. Carefully take off the weight and make sure there isn’t any steam venting. Then carefully remove the lid and jars.

We put them on a shelf out of the way and cover them top and bottom with an old towel so they will cool off slowly. Then we listen to that wonderful pinging sound as they seal.

Aren’t they beautiful??!! 

24 hours later, we remove the rings, wash the jars, label them with the date and store them away. We wash the rings and dry them promptly to prevent any rusting. They need to last for years to come.

We are grateful for the bounty with which we have been blessed.

Until next time – Fern 

Extra Eggs? Devil Them

Since we have laying hens we frequently have extra eggs. It’s not unusual for us to have eggs for supper and we keep some boiled eggs in the frig.

We always keep several dozen eggs back for boilers. They are at least a week or two old, or more. It’s easier to peel them when they are older. One of our favorite ways to eat boiled eggs is to devil them.

Peel, slice and gut.

I have figured the proportions for using 8, 12 or 20 eggs (the recipe for 12 is on the back of the card).

I use a pastry blender to mash up the yolks. It is quick and works great.

Some people put relish in their filling. Mine is pretty simple: mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper.

Here they are – minus a few we have already eaten. I don’t seem to be able to finish up an entire batch without a few of them disappearing. Many people put paprika on their eggs for flavor and decoration. But, Frank can’t eat paprika. He can eat jalapenos and fresh paprika peppers, but not dried. Go figure.

It makes a great addition to a home grown meal. The cheese that didn’t press right, fresh bread with butter from our goat cream and eggs from the chickens. You can’t beat that!

Until next time – Fern 

Building the Chicken Pen

A few years ago we purchased a portable building from a local lumber yard to use as a chicken house. Sometimes it is easier to buy than build, because older muscles have a tendency to hurt.

In the past we have let the chickens out to range around the yard and house, but when we got serious about the garden we knew we would have to limit where they can go. So we put up a fence to separate their part of the yard from ours.

Well, they can easily get under the gates. We tried adding a strip of this construction netting. That kinda worked, but not really.  Some of the chickens would just go under the netting, too.

We had set the posts for a pen or run by the chicken house about three years ago. We knew the posts and concrete needed to set up and cure, but…..three years??? Is this called procrastination? Yep.

This part of the pen was our stumbling block. How do we enclose the area behind the steps with chicken wire and make it sturdy enough that when the chickens scratch around to find a cool place in the summer, they won’t get out? Well, we finally decided it was time to tackle it.

First we needed to mow around the framework we have already put up.

And since we have had a lot of rain this year, the grass was already pretty tall.

Next we need to put up some 2 x 4’s under and beside the steps to attach the wire to. Chickens can get through surprisingly small openings.

Frank had come up with several different plans on how to get this done, and this is what we ended up doing.

 

We put some gravel up against the board along the ground, under and behind the steps, to fill in any uneven places and to discourage animals. We didn’t take any pictures during this process since we were busy crawling around under the steps!

Ta-da! We did it! And it is beautiful! You know that feeling when you finally accomplish something you have dreaded for a long time? It is a good feeling.

This was by far the hardest piece – a lot of grunting and groaning was heard doing this part through the steps.

The chickens still haven’t figured out what all the noise is about. But they will in a few days.

The rest of the wire goes up much easier and, of course, looks great! Even if it is a little wiggity in places. 

 

Doesn’t this gate look wonderful? It was the last step to enclose the pen and let the chickens out.

They haven’t come out yet. A few of the hens will stand on the top step, but they don’t come outside.

We are all creatures of habit and they do not realize they can go beyond the threshold of the door.

Well, it’s a few days later and there are a few brave souls who come outside right after we open the door in the morning. It surprises us that they aren’t all outside. Hmmm….some routines are harder to break than others.

The satisfaction of a task completed motivates us to move on to the next project. And maybe this one won’t take three years! Frank has an old saying, “Success breeds success.”

Waxing the Cheese – No, Not Really

 

Making cheddar cheese is quite a lengthy process. This cheese was made the day before this picture was taken. For the step-by-step process see the post on  Fern’s Cheddar Cheese.

After the cheese had been in the press for the final 24 hours, we took it out to dry.

The mold is still pretty full since we put two batches of cheese, made from four gallons of milk, into one mold this time.

 Frank had to roll the mold over and over and push on it to loosen up the cheese. We were afraid it might be stuck and the force we would need to use to get it out would break it up, but it didn’t. Yea!

Next, carefully remove the cheese cloth. It is not unusual for a little bit of the cheese to stick to the cloth from the edges of the wheel. 

Just take your time and slowly peel it off.

 And, wa-la! You have a beautiful block of fresh cheddar cheese that has no flavor. The first time we made it I had to try some. It didn’t taste like anything. I was disappointed. But the cheddar flavor comes with aging. So, be patient.The cheese has to be dry to the touch and form a kind of rind before it will be ready to wax. So this cheese will sit here on the counter for several days before I wax it.

Day 1 drying

The edges are starting to dry and the top and sides are getting kind of spotty looking – drier vs. more moist areas.

Day 2 still drying 

The darker areas are ‘spreading’. The cheese won’t be dry until the entire surface is the darker color.
We turn the cheese over several times a day for even drying.

Day 3 and still drying

The cheese has a much darker color, but still has a way to go before it is ready to wax. It will be another day or two.

Well, on day 4 we began to wonder about the cheese. It smelled funny. So…..we cut it open. The inside smells just fine, but it is full of holes. We don’t think we could press it hard enough with two batches in one cheese press. It will have to dry for a few more days. I have my doubts about this cheese. 

 

Guess what? On day 5 we gave up on the idea of waxing this cheese and started eating it. It actually tastes pretty good. Not like cheddar, but a nice mild flavor. With all of the holes, we figured it would mold as it aged and that would make it a long waste of time.

I don’t think any two batches of my cheese have come out exactly the same. It is always interesting if not very successful. But I guess that depends upon your idea of success. If I am learning something, then I consider myself to be doing quite well. It’s better than sitting on the couch, staring at the television and eating cheese doodles!

Look for another post on waxing cheese. The next time we make cheddar, we will be using two cheese presses like we have in the past. So we will include pressing and waxing on that post.

Until next time – Fern

How We Got Here

Why are we here? To survive.

After Y2K did not impact our world the way we thought it might we were ready for an adventure, so we spent a number of years in remote, bush Alaska. It was a great time of learning, professional advancement and a lot of fun.

Frank realized in late 2007 and early 2008 that the economy was not going to be able to maintain it’s course. Living in a remote region that depends on air travel and annual barges for food and heating fuel is not the place to be when the economy falters. So, we began to make plans to return to the lower 48.

We had bought land in southeastern Oklahoma several years earlier and made a few professional contacts, in case we ever decided to move to this area. As the housing market continued it’s downward spiral, we looked for jobs in the area to no avail. Finally, in April 2008 we decided we were going to move from Alaska with or without jobs. It ended up being without.

Our careers in Alaska had advanced  nicely and we were on an upwardly mobile track. We were asked to stay and many people didn’t understand why we were leaving. There had been down times in the economy before and we had recovered. This would be no different. But Frank knew better. So we sold out in Alaska and made our final drive down to Oklahoma pulling two U-Haul trailers.

We arrived and moved into a house we had bought adjoining our land, but still no jobs. We contacted the schools in the surrounding small towns and prayed. And waited. And prayed. And waited. We had no doubt that God had brought us here for a reason. We had listened to the promptings we received about the need to move to a place where we could survive. Employment was a necessity, but nothing seemed to be forthcoming. After some anxious days, we were blessed to both get jobs in the same small town. Any doubts that had been growing about where we were supposed to be vanished. We were home.

Since that time we have worked diligently to prepare and build up our homestead. We have established a herd of producing milk goats, chickens, a garden and planted fruit trees and berries. There are many projects for which we have accumulated materials, in case the time comes when we can no longer acquire what we need. The never ending list of projects doesn’t seem to shrink, no matter how many we complete and mark off the list. There is always much to do. We are grateful we have been blessed with this time – time to prepare – physically, spiritually, mentally, emotionally.

We are fortunate that we have been given this opportunity to try and fail at many different things. Our learning curve right now is unbelievable. But there may come a day in the very near future that the practice time will be over. Then if failure occurs, we may get very hungry. It’s not a question of whether it is going to come, it is happening right before our eyes. Right now.

Why are we writing this blog? Because we know that very hard times are coming. God has lead us here so that we can prepare. We are grateful that we have been led to a place off the beaten path. This is a place that we think we might be able to survive if something catastrophic happens – natural disasters, war, terrorist attacks, economic collapse, etc. Or at least we pray we can.

A man that has been warned is tasked with warning his neighbor. We add our warning and share our experiences with the hope that this will help others see the time is near. The wolf is at the door. Pull your family close and prepare all that you can – mentally first, then spiritually, emotionally and physically – to be ready for the world to change into a place that none of us will want to recognize.

Be ready. Listen. Learn. Practice. Work hard. Be vigilant. Share.

Blessings to you all,

Frank & Fern

Radio – Mobile CB

Hello, Frank here.

So, it’s time for a CB radio. I wouldn’t purchase one just yet, there are some other things I want to tell you, especially about 10 meter export radios. But, if your heart is set on a CB, then let’s talk about a possible radio for your vehicle, which is referred to as mobile, or a base station which in many cases can be the same style of radio.

CB radios can go in cars, trucks, boats, four wheelers, farm tractors – anywhere that has a motor and some type of battery. We talked earlier about single side band, SSB.  The type of radio you choose depends upon what type of mobile operation you want. If you want a basic CB radio, there are numerous types to choose from. But if want to include weather (NOAA) and/or SSB, then your selection choice drops sharply.

Examples: If you take your pick-up truck and go mudding, then you probably want a very basic CB radio. If you spend more time in your vehicle in a quiet world, then please consider an SSB CB radio. What activity you do will determine what type of radio you want and the type of antenna.

Some folks for mobile operation have a magnet mounted antenna. But again, if you are mudding or hill climbing, then you will want something permanently mounted. There are lip mounts which attach on the lip of a hood or a back door hatch. 

Mirror mounts, are what you think of when you see the big rigs. Mirror mounts, in some cases, will also attach to luggage racks. What you get depends on your need. 

The antennas themselves come from eight feet long to about two feet long. As a general rule, the longer the antenna, the farther you can transmit and the better your reception. There are all metal antennas, metal antennas with little spools of wire in the middle, fiberglass antennas with wire embedded in the fiberglass. Some are flexible, some are rigid.

So much for antennas, mounts and radios. Now you need to decide which type you want. Included in a previous post are some websites for CB radio dealers. I will include these sites again at the end of this post.

So, now you have picked a radio, you’ve picked the type of mount and antenna you want. The power supply is going to be the 12 volt system in the vehicle. It is best to connect the radio power cable directly to the battery. The positive side connected to the battery and the negative side to the battery or to any good solid metal attachment. You might have to buy a little extra cable to do this.

A cigar-type plug connected in the cigarette lighter outlet or any 12 volt accessory outlet will also power the radio. The problem with plugging into a cigarette lighter adapter is that sometimes there will be engine and computer noise from the vehicle on the radio.
In future posts, I will talk more about power supplies. The closer you connect the power cable to the battery, the less background noise there will be from the vehicle.

Whatever type of mount and antenna you choose, you will need to run coax cable to the antenna connector on the radio. Most mag mount antennas come with this cable already connected with a plug-in adapter on the end of the cable. Some mounts come as kits with cable and adapter provided, with others you will have to provide your own. Most people run the cable through a door opening and bring it into the vehicle. If you run it underneath seats, make sure it is not in an area where moving the seat forward or backward will damage the cable. 

Now that just about covers it. You have the radio, a place to mount it inside your vehicle, and the antenna with a cable plugged into the radio. A slight warning here, NEVER key the microphone on the radio to transmit without an antenna connected. This is a very easy way to fry the radio.

You are ready to go – almost. There is this little thing called SWR, which means standing wave ratio. Somebody with an SWR meter needs to check and see if the SWR on your radio is low or high. Either the antenna or the coax cable will need to be adjusted to lower the SWR if it’s high. This may sound extremely complicated, but if you are going to be successful with a CB radio, then the SWR needs to be low. You ask, “What is SWR?” To make it very simple, SWR is the radio frequency waves bouncing back from the antenna to the radio, restricting the ability of your transmitted signal to be transmitted successfully. This applies to any transmitted signal, whether it is mobile, base, CB, MURS, or ham radio. Any local CB shop should be able to help you tune your radio system so that the SWR is low and your enjoyment is maximized.

Many CB radios have a built in SWR meter. These meters are not known to be tremendously accurate, but they are a good start. Some antenna systems will say pre-tuned at the factory and that is probably true. They were pre-tuned at the factory for whatever piece of test equipment they were using. That does not mean it is pre-tuned for your vehicle and your radio. How you tune the radio’s SWR can be affected by the location of the antenna on the vehicle, the length of the cable running from the antenna to the radio, or how the excess cable is gathered, normally under a front seat. So – being tuned at the factory – take that for what it is worth.

Firestik is a new website that I would like for you to check out. I have done business with these folks, as I have the others mentioned. They make good, quality, American made products. Their site also has a library of information. Besides looking at their products, go to their FAQ and technical help sections. This should answer the vast majority of CB technology questions and problems.

This may sound technical and complicated, but it’s really not. Next time we will talk about specific radios for mobile use in a vehicle, because there is a big difference between vibrating down the highway at 65 MPH in the rain or snow, and a radio sitting stationary inside your house. As stated earlier, some radios will do both. 

We’ve learned some new terms this time. Study some of the websites. Remember, some radios have weather, SWR, and even have alarm clocks – which could come in handy if you are sleeping in your car, for whatever reason. If you know of a reputable, local CB shop that installs radios, stop by and visit with them. You might pay a few extra bucks for this service, but if the people know what they are doing, they can teach you how to install a radio properly.

I would still recommend a CB radio with SSB. There are only a few on the market. One is made by Cobra, some are made by Galaxy and Uniden makes a new one. If you want to sit at home at night and talk to stations around the country, then your best bet is a single side band. If you want to talk to your neighbor down the street, SSB will also work for short distance line-of-sight communications. Again, remember, CB radio is line-of-sight communications unless you are using a radio with SSB. Yes, on rare occasions any CB radio will work long distance by bouncing off the ionosphere. But a radio with SSB, will bounce off the ionosphere more often and with more reliability.

Think safety.

We’ll talk more later. 73, Frank

CB World

Bells CB Radio 

Walcott CB